Day 5 of Training

• Tonight I asked Shane Messer to give me some input for the blog. He went above and beyond and wrote an entire post for us. Hope you enjoy his insight and perspective as a coach.

  

                             
                               Shane with speed climbers Thomas Petzel and John Brosler
  

  Hello parents, climbers, and followers. My name is Shane Messer and I am one of the coaches on staff here assisting with the preparations of the US climbing team for the Youth World Championship in 5 days. I arrived to Victoria, BC yesterday psyched and ready to work. I arrived late because I recently had a baby boy and the staff at USA Climbing was gracious enough to let me join the kids a little later in the week so that I could spend a little time with my wife and newly born son. So I'd like to say thank you to USA Climbing for that.

  Having missed the opportunity to help the kids climb on the sport wall, the time that I have spent with the climbers has been spent in the small bouldering area. The bouldering area at the gym is small and a little outdated compared to their new addition to the climbing area (the wall that the competition will be held on). However what it lacks in size, it makes up for in the variety of angles that it has. Its got everything from a steep ramp to a slab and from about 20 degrees to 50 degrees. I don't want to be to specific about what we have been doing for training but I can give you a rough idea. We have had multiple stations that the climbers rotate to. The stations have consisted of power, power endurance, and endurance. Each one of these climbers has been working so hard that it gives me goosebumps to think about it. At each station we have seen countless efforts to succeed and to push one hold farther. I literally can't think of one slacker kid that's a part of this camp. It's amazing!

  Each night we have had a team meeting after our post climbing activity and before dinner. The meetings I feel are one of the most important parts of the training day. This is our one opportunity as coaches to help the kids understand what they can do to better them as a united organization. I guess I would call it group constructive criticism. Claudiu speaks first and talks about what he see's as a head coach then passes the speaking on to the individual station coaches to allow us to talk about what was positive and what was negative at each station. Of all the meetings I have been to so far, I can say that there is a lot more positive than negative going out to the climbers. Mainly because the whole team is pushing themselves as far as they can and trying to make the best out of each attempt.

  One last thing I'd like to share my opinion about is the level of coaching and medical care I have seen here at this camp. This year instead of the normal head coach and 3 assistants, USA Climbing sent 1 head coach, 2 assistant coaches, 3 apprentice coaches, and 1 medical personnel. I have worked with Claudiu and Chelsea at past events but this is my first time working with Dave, Alex, Meghan, and Mark. So far this is one of the most involved coaching staffs I have seen yet. They are really on top of their game providing accurate and positive feedback to the climbers. I feel like each day every climber learns something from these coaches. These are some of the best coaches in the nation and hopefully all of the feedback they are giving to the climbers will show itself this weekend. This is also the first time we have had a medical staff at this event. Mark (who's birthday is today) has been amazing. He's super easy to work with and only wants the best for the climbers. He is constantly checking with the kids to make sure everyone is feeling good. I think everyone is really warming up to the idea of having a medical person on staff and I hope that Mark continues to participate in USA climbing events for years to come.

  Everyone please make sure to thank Kim for her constant updating. She has been working pretty hard to capture the moments when we are working the hardest and when we are having the most fun (which is pretty much the whole time). So I'd like to say thank you to her for being the best parent liaison we have ever had! THANK YOU!!!!!

  I look forward to seeing everyone here in a few days!!!! See you soon!

  
  

  Shane Messer

  
  

  P.S The originally planned activities for the afternoon had to be switched to plan B secondary to a major road construction/repair on the highway that goes from the dorm to the gym, The group consensus was to go back to the beach. When we arrived there was a festival going on. They had the most amazing sand sculptures. The time at the beach was pretty chill for all.

  Kim